DIY Skateboard

DIY Skateboard – Easy to Follow Guide

The creation of DIY skateboard was introduced to people for transportation use while also giving them the feeling of surfing on the street. Way back years ago, the skateboard was built through a flat and solid wood, restraining the skaters to only do balancing and some rolling tricks. When the first Ollie trick was detailed, things started to shift.

This gave the skaters the aptitude to demonstrate their riding tricks anywhere, introducing a new dimension of potentialities for the skaters. Hence, the first skateboard instantly became outmoded. By any chance, if you are looking for some ways and avenues wherein you can learn how to build a DIY skateboard, then this should be the place that you should check.

What are the materials needed?

Before you start your construction, you will have to gather the materials and specify the size you desire to make for your skateboard. Many skateboards are approximately 8″ in width and range from 26″- 48″. People may opt for shorter skateboards if their common usage for the skateboard is just around the city streets. The cost may differ depending on the kind of material you will get. Here are the common materials used in making DIY skateboard:

  • Veneer
  • Jigsaw or band saw
  • Tiebond glue
  • 3 ultimate glue
  • Router of rasp
  • Clear coat lacquer
  • Painters tape
  • Spray paint

You should be very particular in choosing your materials for your DIY skateboard. If you want to ensure the quality of your skateboard for your most exciting ride, then you have to choose quality materials. Although the price may create an impact, always remember that quality materials will also ensure safety while you are riding on your skateboard.

Visit Also: Our Best Skateboard Page Here!

DIY Skateboard – How to Build it

It is important that you get a veneer that is hard maple. This type of veneer is strong and it has been proven not to fracture easily. There are three types of veneers that you can get:

Face – a type of veneer that is sanded on the other side, and not sander on the other end.

Core layer – it is so much similar to the face, only none of the sides is sanded.

Cross band – it is the veneer sheet which is sliced going against the grain.

How to Glue the Veneers?

To ensure the quality of your building, make sure to use top quality woodworking glue. Some of the best glues for veneer are Titebond III. You may also opt to use another kind of glue which is primarily designed for skateboarding.

When putting the glue, it would be ideal to do it along with a paint roller, preferably one that is not beyond 4″ width and with a compact nap. The quantity of glue to use is essential and may differ depending on the kind of glue you are using.

Some people making DIY skateboard use approximately 3 ounces for each plywood on a dry roller while approximately 2 ounces for each veneer on a wet roller. While putting on the glue, it is important that you make a smooth coat that is not dried at any portion. The primary concern when making a DIY skateboard is delamination, which is commonly triggered by improper placement of glue. Hence, you must act quickly but make sure that you are able to put the glue in the right manner.

If you are making a professional skateboard, you have to arrange your wood in the right manner to achieve optimum results. The definitive arrangement for the wood would be the following in proper sequence: (1) Face sheet (considered to be the best wood), (2) Core sheet, (3) Crossband sheet, (4) Core sheet, (5) Crossband sheet, (6) Core sheet, (7) Face sheet.

The thickness of the veneer also differs. Usually, core layers are 0.058/1.47mm and cross bands and faces are usually in 0.050/1.27mm.

After putting the veneer in the right position, the next thing you should do is the gluing. Nonetheless, for the process of gluing, position the sanded portion of the face in the concrete, while the un-sanded portion facing up. Put the glue on the un-sanded portion then get a middle layer and put it on the face. Do the same procedure for the cross-bond up to seven times.

Design the uncut

The moment the uncut deck becomes cured, remove it from the mold and take off the cardboard. After then, you can proceed with designing. You may draw your design in a graph paper then put it on the uncut but do not tape it on. Decide for the length of the tail and nose of the skateboard.  Once you are able to figure out the placement, create markings intended for the trucks and you may begin to tape and draw then start cutting the outline.

Pressing

Once all veneers are already glued together, you can now proceed with pressing. To begin with, the pressing, choose two cardboards which are approximately 3″ wider and longer. Then get the deformed board. Reaching that point, position the frame on its side then place the veneers in the middle of the frame and the cardboard. Get 20″ to 16″ nuts with washers and bolts, and 2″ to 4″ channel irons.

Next step is to place the channel irons right in the center of the frame to make sure that it can be pressed neatly. The moment this is completed, let the skateboard deck shape for the rest of the day. Monitor it every 2 hours to make sure that the bag is still compact.  You may need to suction much air out from the bag every now and then. Wait for 1 to 2 days so that it can get restored wonderfully and powerfully.

You must know that skateboards are built from 6-9 layers of pressed plywood. To make sure that the skateboard is able to endure damage and stress, it is then built with many layers. Several thin layers of veneer and plywood are placed in layers, glued, and pressed together for some hours to create one deck. Commonly, 7 pieces of 1od are used, although some use 9.

Modifying the width of the sheets or the number of pieces will create an impact to its flexibility, weight, and riding components.

Many decks have a thickness of approximately 10mm.

Drill the holes

Holes will have to be drilled for the skateboard trucks through a drill press. You make maximize as well the use of a standard drill; nevertheless, the holes must be straight to the deck. To determine the holes, you may utilize an old deck or find the measurement of the precise deck center, find the wheelbase and start from there. Make sure that the truck holes are 1 5/8″ distant and 2 1/8″ from front to rear. For the holes, it would be ideal to use a 3/16″ drill bit.

Forming the skateboard

The formation of the skateboard is commonly performed by using an old deck. It will serve as your template. Create a prototype of that old deck onto your solid blank so that you would be able to determine where to do the cutting to come up with your preferred shape.

Cut the wood a bit bigger than the final skateboard. Make a line down the center of the plywood – the line will serve as the center of the skateboard. Then transfer the drawing right into plywood. If it can do you well to envision the final piece, illustrate both halves. If not, one side would be enough. Mark the position where the trucks will go.

You can either use a band saw or a jigsaw in cutting your deck. The nearer to the line, the less job you will have to perform by hand. However, do not worry if you go beyond. What is important is you make a clean cut. In addition, you may also take the standard measurements of a skateboard to determine where to cut.

Commonly, the tail of the skateboard is slenderer compared to the tip or nose.

Routing and sanding

The method used in achieving rounded edges on your skateboard is through routing or sanding. You may get a palm router or a mini router because it is less hulking and more convenient to maneuver around the deck of the skateboard. The figure of the radius is prescribed by unique inclination, although 1/8″ to 3/16″ radius is the common choice of many pros.

The moment you are able to manage the edges already, your next step is to sand the skateboard. Sanding is useful but not necessary to utilize an orbital sander. You may opt to begin with an 80 grit sandpaper and reasonably find your way down to approximately 200 grit sandpaper. Sanding will highly make the skateboard smooth and even.

Do not underestimate this process. You may think that this is just a very simple item and that it doesn’t create too much impact on the efficiency of your DIY skateboard, but that is completely wrong. This is actually the most significant procedure because it will tell the characteristic of the surface that you will paint. Of course, the better sanding you do, the lesser chance you will see yourself paint.

The spray is a lot easier and it also dries quicker. Once it gets dried, you can sand the board again through very fine sandpaper, preferably 500 or even above, then seal again the board.

Sealing

After doing the sanding on your deck to make it smooth, you may get a tack cloth to wipe off the remaining sawdust. This tack cloth is a kind of cheesecloth covered in a particular kind of wax. Tack cloth works effectively and it would be really best to use it in making your DIY skateboard. Knowing that your deck is already smooth and free from sawdust, you may now do the sealing.

Deft Lacquer will be the best choice is sealing your skateboard. Do not get it contorted. We want to make it clear that we do not have the intention of advertising any product here, rather our sole purpose is to give you the idea about the best materials for the DIY skateboard.

There are actually several products that you can use, but Deft Lacquer is the most promising – only that it smells really bad. This means that you must apply it in an aired out environment. You do not have to suffer from its smell, just find an appropriate environment that can help you manage the smell.

Graphics

Once you are done with the sealing, you may now go to the next step which is the graphics. Graphics will actually depend on your preference. You can go to freehand, stencil, screenprint, or spray paint. You just have to make sure that you use a paint with a similar base from your finishing coat and sealer.

This implies that if you utilized a solvent-based sealer, you must also use a solvent-based paint. The same that if you utilize a water-based sealer, you must also use water-based paint. Very often, skateboard arts are done through stencils and spray paint. It would be up to you which one will be most convenient and efficient for you.

Conclusion

A DIY skateboard is remarkably doable; not as difficult as how many people believe. Creating the deck, or wooden board only needs the common knowledge on carpentry. You just how to know about the use of the jigsaw, skateboard mold, and vacuum press. The steps are actually manageable even if you are just in the comfort of your home. You just have to learn these steps and ensure that you deliver well.

Building a DIY skateboard can be tricky. But if you learn and execute well the above steps, then there is nothing to worry about because you are bound to make a superior quality skateboard.

Once you complete all these steps, you will be set to roll out your skateboard and showcase your impressive skateboarding skills. Although competent looking skateboards are crucial without using professional tools, any people can create a skateboard and be able to begin their ride in just 1-2 days.

Sources:

  1. Wood Veneer – Wikipedia
  2. How to Make a Skateboard – DIYNetwork
  3. How to Make Skateboards Out of Your Garage with HANDSHAPED SKATEBOARDS – Youtube.com (David Morefield)

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